On the evening of Tuesday, June 29th, I left the condos at Rivera Cuale and walked down to the Malecon, as I had done many evenings before. This time was different though; this time I had a mission. I was on my way to finally take a dedicated look at the many beautiful sculptures there. I had read that a new organization in town, Learn Vallarta, was taking over the Malecon sculpture tour because the local art gallery that was doing them previously had stopped for the summer season. Having lived here for almost two years now, I was actually a little ashamed of myself for not having gone on one of these free tours sooner, so I decided it was time to take advantage of the opportunity! Also, I am not much of an art connoisseur, being pretty much a literal sort of personality. I figured having a knowledgeable guide to interpret the less literal sculptures for me would enhance the experience and garner me a new appreciation for the bronze figures I had walked past uncountable times before.
A group of about 15 of us set off from the first sculpture by the Rosita Hotel, The Millennium, at 6:30pm. It was a little overcast, but as long as it didn’t start pouring I didn’t mind, and besides, it was a nice reprieve from the blazing sun.
We were told that the inspiration behind many of the sculptures is the sea, and evolution, and that we would visit 13 sculptures along the Malecon. Here they are:
1. The Millenium, Mathis Lídice, 2001
2. The Nostalgia, Ramiz Barquet, 1984
3. Nature as Mother, Tapatio Adrian Reynoso, 1999
4. The Subtle Stone Eater, Jonas Gutiérrez, 2006
5. The Rotunda of the Sea, Alejandro Colunga, 1997
6. In Search of Reason, Sergio Bustamante, 1990 (or 1999?)
7. The Seahorse, Rafel Zamarripa, 1976
8. Triton and the Nereid, Carlos Esprino, 1990
9. The Friendship Fountain, James “Bud” Bottoms, 1987
10. Angel of Hope and Messenger of Peace, Hector Manuel Montes García, 2008
11. Dancers of Vallarta, Jim Demetro, 2006
12. Standing on End, Maritza Vazquez (“Blu”), 2007
13. Patron Saint of Cooks, Ramiz Barquet, 2008
If you’ve been to Puerto Vallarta, probably you’ve seen some or all of those. While they are all interesting and beautiful, I will share with you some of the ones that really made an impression on me, and the photos I took.
The Nostalgia – This is probably one of the most well-known of the Malecon sculptures, and it symbolizes the sculptor’s own love story between him and his wife, painter Nelly Barquet. As youngsters, the two planned to marry, but their parents did not approve and sent them away to different schools. 27 years later, after each having had their own families and marriages, they ran into each other in a Mexico City flower shop. They started to spend time together and sit on the Malecon to enjoy the sunsets, on the very spot where the The Nostalgia now stands. It was not long before Ramiz proposed marriage, and the two have been together for many years now. They live right here in Puerto Vallarta. I actually met them once, when I was new to the city, and had no idea then of their touching story.
The Rotunda of the Sea – This is a fantastical collection of sculptures that stir up the senses. The figures are positioned to form a rotunda, and they represent a transformation from the sea to human life. Originally there were 16 pieces, but over time, through weathering, a hurricane and vandalism, there are now only 7. The figures are really neat – you can actually sit in their bronze laps, and many people do, which explains the sculptures’ worn, shiny surfaces. If you look closely, you will see that the bench piece, which many unassuming passerby perch on, has eyes and ears! So watch what you say! Sadly, I wasn’t able to get a great photo of The Rotunda of the Sea for you because the tour was moving ahead without me.
In Search of Reason – This surrealistic sculpture is another highly recognizable one. Inspired by an English philosopher, it depicts figures on their quest for reason, or internal harmony, as well as the artist’s own. Two figures are perched on the 60’ high ladder, and one figure stands at the base, arms outspread. While some interpret the figure on the ground to be the mother calling to her children, maybe to be careful or to come down from their ascent, I prefer to think that this figure is wishing the others well on their journey, perhaps singing in exaltation.
Something of interest is that this bottom figure was swept away by Hurricane Kenna in 2002 and ended up in the dump. Some enterprising youths found it, cleaned it up and tried to sell it. However (and fortunately!), it was recognized and reinstalled on the Malecon in its rightful place.
Triton and the Nereid – This piece was commissioned by the government and is a representation of the sea and human form at the same time. Triton is the son and herald of the Greek god of the sea, Poseidon, and is seen here reaching out to a Nereid, a Greek sea nymph. The Nereids are believed to have the gift of prophesy.
There was a time that now seems like a lifetime ago, where I took a couple of elective courses in university that covered Greek mythology. Interesting stuff…although keeping everyone’s name straight was always a challenge!
The Friendship Fountain – Hard to believe, but this is the only sculpture on the Malecon that has a fountain. It was created by an American sculptor as a gift from Santa Barbara, CA to Puerto Vallarta, its sister city. The fountain has three dolphins, to represent the two cities and their uniting friendship.
Vallarta Dancers – This sculpture doesn’t require much interpretation and made sense to me right away – it’s two people dancing! The base of the sculpture says that it was inspired by “youthful energy, flowing movement, colorful costumes of the talented Xiutla dancers and their instructor and choreographer Prof. Enrique Barrios Limon.” I’ve seen some of these dance performances around Vallarta, and I can vouch for that description. The sculptor is from the state of Washington.
There are many other sculptures around Puerto Vallarta. Probably the largest is the massive 12 ton bronze whale in the entrance to Marina Vallarta. Its tremendous weight is carried on just one flipper! There is an intriguing sculpture of film director John Huston, who was here in 1963 shooting Night of the Iguana, on the Isla Cuale. There are other sculptures around Old Town as well. But I won’t tell you about them – I’ll leave it to you to enjoy the delight of coming upon them yourself.
Article and Photos by Leanne Smith
I welcome your questions and comments!